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Month: February 2017

The Long Route to Le Mas Blanc: A writing retreat in the South of France

This piece was originally posted to the TNQ blog in Spring 2013.


I am a terrible traveller. Pretty much phobic about flying. Ironically, I’ve spent my life travelling. I was born on an overseas business trip—crossed oceans and continents my entire life. I should be cavalier but I’m not. Quite the opposite. My fears were intensified by a series of horrible incidents on planes: fires, forced emergency landings, violent passengers, and a miscarriage en route from Australia to Fiji. I was the one miscarrying, doubled over in the tiny toilet cubicle, gripped with pain and fear and sorrow, and blaming myself for flying pregnant.

I had all but abandoned flying when I happened upon an article about the Yorkshire-born travel writer, Bruce Chatwin, who apparently travelled to the far reaches of the globe with little other than a rucksack full of prescription drugs.

I’ve long regarded Chatwin as an ally. Yorkshire is also my ancestral home. I admire Chatwin’s dogged determination. And I’d heard him described as so gay he was positively festive. I feel instinctively I would have loved this feisty, festive man. But it was his rucksack full of medications that helped ease my fear of flying; the realization that anxiety is part of travel even for the most intrepid. And the simultaneous insight that there’s a drug for that.

So, in a heated moment after looking at the Air France website daily for two weeks, I belted back a stiff drink, reminded myself how much I love France and paid for a non-refundable trip across the Atlantic. My mission—a writing retreat in the South of France. I was going to stay in an old barn, the solo writing retreat at Le Mas Blanc, home of Canadian writer and French resident, Isabel Huggan.


Bridge to Mas Blanc
Bridge to Mas Blanc

 

On the train between Kingston and Montreal’s Trudeau airport, I let go of the pre-trip chaos and shift into another mode altogether. I order coffee and watch the bare, brown fields go by. It is early April and the snow is gone, but it is still the limbo land between winter and spring.

I cross the Atlantic with two seats to myself. I order champagne. I watch movies instead of sleeping. The Ativan in my carry-on goes untouched. In Paris, I charge between Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports feeling almost worldly, with minutes to spare before the final leg of my trip.

Isabel Huggan meets me at Montpelier airport. She is lively, has a great smile. Her car has recently sustained some damage. “It’s kind of rakish, driving a slightly banged-up Citroen,” she says.

Moments later we are hurtling along narrow French roads—two women, footloose and schedule-free in the beautiful South of France, in the rakish Citroen.

I’d read about Le Mas Blanc in Huggan’s award-winning book, Belonging, never once imagining that I might one day visit. As we pull onto the property, remnant details of the book come flooding back: the ancient bridge, the olive trees, the old micocoulier tree on the terrace overlooking the river, the stone house and barn that will be my home for the next two weeks.

Isabel in Aduze
Isabel in Aduze

 

The barn doors are epic. Huge. Handsome. Solid wood. Beside the barn is the river, behind are the garden and orchard. In front of me is Le Mas Blanc. Outside my second-floor studio windows, the beautiful grey-blue Cevennes Mountains.

It’s cold and damp, and utterly rural. Surrounded as I am by stone and river, I feel as close to my heritage here as I would in Yorkshire. I am, strangely, home. A sense of belonging.

Routine sets up quickly. I write all day long, taking time out to walk and eat. Walks usually take me along the river across the ancient bridge, past the vineyards and the 12th Century Romanesque church. There is a perfect hilly walk through the old village and other options for more remote walks, but I prefer to avoid the wild boars so I stick mainly to the paths I know.

The first week is unseasonably cold. I write with a hot water bottle, hot tea, a blanket draped over my shoulders.

This is the perfect place to write. Distraction-free. No café or corner store. The village has only a post office and French library. My studio is equipped with breakfast and lunch fixings. Initially I eat too much. Isabel has laid in: tapenade, cheese, chocolate, honey, biscuits, fruit, muesli, yogourt. I make deals with myself–I must write another page before I eat another piece of cheese.

At night I head over to Le Mas Blanc for dinner with Isabel. We talk about food, cooking, writing, books, France, travel, and eventually, about life and love and lovers. Some nights Isabel lets me loose in her kitchen. I cook while she lights the fire and sets the table. These nights are a highlight; the fresh wild leek omelette seared into my memory forever.

I knew when I read Belonging that Isabel and I share a love of place—a love as potent and meaningful as any other. The love of place is as much about longing as anything else—the beautiful yearning aching for somewhere or something left behind.

Week two, and the weather warms. The frogs in the river start their croaking. I lay in bed at night, listening—smiling to myself. The frogs of France are keeping me awake… Isabel tells me that the almighty racket they are making is the sound of their mating. Who can be lonely with that for company? I drift off every night to the sound of frogs making love.

picking wild leeks
picking wild leeks

 

Daily walks through the vineyards bring glimpses of the first tendrils of life appearing on the ancient vines. Asparagus and strawberries are in season. I turn off the heater, shed my blanket and hot water bottle and return to my desk—my notes—my computer. I keep writing. In my second week it feels as though I mustn’t stop. I am conscious that my time in France is running out. This is the ultimate luxury—this absolute quiet—this much time to write, this freedom from work and chores.

Isabel convinces me to see a little of the Languedoc-Roussillon, the largest wine-growing region in France. Grapes have grown here since the Pleistocene era, since before the appearance of man. Grapes actually preceded us.

We visit the neighbouring towns of Anduze, St. Hippo, Nimes, and Uzès. I am smitten with everything.

In medieval Uzès, a town famous for its beauty and history, we walk the narrow curving cobblestone streets, admiring the tile roofs, the wrought iron, the faded, ancient shutters, the French blue, and the remnants of ancient history. The Romans built an aqueduct in Uzès in the first century BC to take water to nearby Nîmes; this town is over two thousand years old. In Kingston, where I live, we are proud of our two hundred-year-old buildings, of our history that reaches back to a time before Canada was yet a country.

At the market in Uzès I buy local olive oil in a sleek black tin, an olive wood cutting board, and a fabulous, huge (and very French) sac au main. Isabel buys artichokes and fresh pasta and sun-dried tomatoes as plump as fresh plums. We sit on a café terrasse enjoying coffee and pain au chocolat. The sky is brilliant blue, the deep cornflower blue of neighbouring Provence. The plane trees are just beginning to bud. Locals walk by, their market bags brimming with flowers and baguettes.

On my last night in France, I sleep badly, dreaming about not waking up in time, missing my flights. I check my clock and listen to the dark night, repeating the dream-wake-clock cycle over and over. I think about my time in this old barn in the South of France where I have been steeping in history and culture and fresh air. I have been living on cheese, honey, coffee, wine, listening to love-making frogs.

I waken to the alarm jangling. Sunshine is pouring in the windows. Isabel and I are back in the Citroën, hurtling along the now familiar narrow roads, heading towards the Mediterranean, to the airport in Montpellier.

There is a strange power in repositioning oneself. It is not just the time and space that a writing retreat affords, it is the explosion of neuronal activity that jolts one into the miraculous state of being fully alive. As Henry David Thoreau wrote, “It matters not where or how far you travel…but how much alive you are.”

I would like to thank both the Ontario Arts Council for the International Writing Residency Grant that enabled me to travel to France to work on a series of stories about transgender journeys; and Isabel Huggan for her care during my stay at Le Mas Blanc.

For more information about Le Mas Blanc, please visit: http://www.isabelhuggan.com/.

Delectable, down-to-earth recipes to see you through your retreat are posted on Lindy’s blog, “love in the kitchen” at: http://lindymechefske.com.

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Memory, Desire, and the Aural Imagination

Ruth Daniell won TNQ‘s 2016 Nick Blatchford Occasional Verse Contest for “Wedding Anniversary,” published in Issue #140: In Appreciation of Our Spots. Paid subscribers can read the winning piece here.


I’ve been reading Eleanor Wachtel’s latest collection of interviews. She says one of her favourite questions for opening up a conversation is “What’s your earliest memory?” Are you game?

My earliest memory is of being allowed to feed my little brother his dinner. He was probably barely one year old, and I was two and a half or three. He was sitting in what I can only think to describe as a low high-chair, just my height, in our family’s kitchen, which back then had a floral-patterned linoleum tile floor. I spooned the mush in the general direction of his mouth, but I was laughing so hard that my arm was noodly, and as my brother was laughing just as hard it would have been impossible for him to swallow safely. Most of the food got on his cheeks, which only made us laugh harder. I remember being proud that I was deemed responsible enough to help give my brother his dinner and also being delighted that we were allowed to make such a mess. The entire endeavour was supervised by my mother, who I’m sure came in afterwards to see that my giggly brother didn’t go to sleep still hungry.

 

That’s funny, my earliest memory also involves my younger brother, though it’s not at all joyful. I must have been about five, my brother two. I had been sent from the table for some disgrace I no longer remember and was slumped in the hallway, crying out my shame and anger. My brother nerved himself to follow me and crouched down beside me in solidarity, but I was so mad at the world I told him to go away. He did, and then I felt wracked by regret. I wonder what that says about our respective personalities! How about your earliest writing-related memory?

My earliest writing-related memory is composing a poem about a bat who was looking for the perfect hat. I thought it was brilliant.


I’m sure it was. You have what reads like the perfect education for a poet, poetry being such an oral/aural art: a BA in English Literature from the University of Victoria, an MFA in Creative Writing from the University of British Columbia, degrees in speech performance from Trinity College London and the Royal Conservatory of Music in Toronto plus years spent teaching what you call “speech arts” yourself. Can you say something about how this educational path fuelled, or was fuelled by, your love of poetry and perhaps mention some of the poems/poets you’ve always felt played particularly well to the ear?

Ruth in Boots Mode
Ruth in Boots Mode

 

Tough question! I’ll try not to tell my entire life story. My education definitely fuelled and was fuelled by my love of poetry. It started very early for me. I always loved reading—my mother loves books and spent her entire career working for my hometown’s library—and my parents put me in speech arts classes when I was, I think, seven years old. Until I graduated from high school and moved away from home, I competed annually in the Prince George Speech Arts and Drama Festival. Some of my fellow students were aspiring actors and although I liked what I learned from acting, I was always more drawn to the performance of poetry. I already knew—from TV and plays—that people would come together to watch other people perform drama. It was empowering to me to know that dozens of individuals would also spend the time to memorize and perform poems, and that others would come to listen. This really fuelled my love of poetry, I think, so rarely did my nerdy interests align with those of my peers. This experience emphasized for me, early on, that poetry is meant to be shared, and—most importantly—shared aloud. That aural awareness definitely shaped the kind of poetry that I loved, and still love, and that I try to write.

Happily, those early experiences of reading and performing poetry also exposed me to a wide range of poems, contemporary as well as traditional. It gave me the idea that people are still writing poems, and that I could be one of them. (Speaking of “traditional” poetry, Shakespeare’s sonnets still stand out to me, aesthetically and acoustically, as among the finest.) If my early speech arts education helped fuel my love of poetry, my love of poetry is what motivated me to pursue further education in poetry, literature, and performance. When I was a teenager I was lucky enough to have a couple of especially kind mentors who urged me to take my writing seriously, which is how come I ended up applying to the University of Victoria. I was delighted when I took my first poetry workshop at UVic and discovered that each workshop began with a poet reading his or her own work aloud to the class.

If I’m going to mention Canadian poets whose work plays particularly well to the ear, I must include Dennis Lee, who of course writes wonderful poetry for adults as well, but whose lyric voice and gift for nonsense first influenced me through his children’s poetry. I teach his title poem from Alligator Pie to all my youngest students, who unanimously love it.

Ruth Daniell

What made you think to submit your prize-winning occasional poem, “Wedding Anniversary” to TNQ? We rely on contests to put the magazine in front of new readers, but we hope there’s also something in it for our writers.

I submitted to TNQ because the contest is unique in its focus and celebration of the occasional poem. I feel like most poems, for me, begin with an occasion in my own life, whether that occasion stays overtly in the poem or not. There is a lot of good poetry that experiments outside of the lyric-narrative mode but I suspect that even those poems have an inciting incident, an occasion that plants the seed from which the poem grows. I am fierce about the distinction between speaker and poet but I also appreciate the honesty of the acknowledgement that at some point someone had to write the poem and they had to have a reason—whether that reason was they spilled their coffee on their new pants, heard something interesting on the radio, saw a child lose a balloon in the park, fell into or out of love, or anything else ordinary or marvellous.

 

I’ve had occasion to read “Wedding Anniversary” to an audience several times now. It never fails to captivate, and yet it eschews many of the more obvious poetic conventions: the meter sometimes falls into iambic pentameter but more often the cadence is disrupted, and there’s no use of rhyme, either end rhyme or internal. However, there’s lots of alliteration (“and so we laugh suddenly when seven of them / stroll towards us, dust and gold and glow”) and even more assonance and consonance (“you might / see them through the hinged slats overlooking the marsh, / hush, hush. Through the discontinuities of wood / light slips in, feathery—“). And then there’s the use of figurative language, which I’ll return to. Can you say something about your poetic process and how the aural strategies used here served your purposes?

My process is mostly intuitive, especially when it comes to sound, but that doesn’t mean it’s not intentional. I usually attend to the imagery of the poem, first, and then sit back and listen. I read my poems aloud a lot during composition, and I can usually hear if something is not working—so then I fiddle with it until it sounds right. I believe that in order for the image to “look” right in the mind of the reader it should also sound right to the reader’s ear.

In “Wedding Anniversary” I was aiming to capture a sense of wonder, trepidation, and that feeling of almost-magical silence, so the repetition of the “sh” sound, for example, helped to serve that effect. And have you noticed that time seems to slow down during pivotal moments? Well, if we’re talking about aural strategies—it’s pretty hard to make a long vowel sound short. I wanted to help evoke that surreal slowing down of time: the repetition of the long vowels, the long “o” sound as the Sandhill Cranes appear—“stroll,” “gold,” “glow”—helps to slow the poem down.

I love working in rhyme (remember the bat and the hat) but it wouldn’t have worked for this poem. The sound devices needed to be a bit more submerged to mimic the apprehension and quietness of the “spell” that the speaker imagines. The couple of the poem is making a decision together, but that decision takes place on an unspoken level, really; rhyme would have felt obvious, instead of secretive and unsure.

 

Sandhill Cranes with Young
Sandhill Cranes with Young

 

As to the figurative language, we understood how the idea that a couple might have conceived a child in a blind prepares for what the poem has to say about the leap of faith required to embark on parenthood. But why (we have our theories but I want to hear from you!) did you settle on Sandhill Cranes as the bird to best represent the choice made?

Because Sandhill Cranes have such elaborate, beguiling mating rituals. Because (like many of the birds that romantic humans most revere) they mate for life. Because they are fiercely protective parents. Because of their long, rich calls. Because they are beautiful and big and formidable. And because one year my husband and I really did see Sandhill Cranes together on our wedding anniversary.

 

Cover of the Boobs anthologyYou use the phrase “their uncommon bodies” to describe the cranes (“sure-headed mystics adorned with nuptial red”). That puts me in mind of another of your projects, one you both conceived and edited: the anthology Boobs: Women Explore What It Means to Have Breasts. The publisher (Caitlin Press) describes it thus: “At turns heartbreaking and hilarious, Boobs is a diverse collection of stories about the burdens, expectations and pleasures of having breasts. From the agony of puberty and angst of adolescence to the anxiety of aging, these stories and poems go beyond the usual images of breasts found in fashion magazines and movie posters, instead offering dynamic and honest portraits of desire, acceptance and the desire for acceptance.” I like that last pairing. Can you tell us something of how that anthology came together, of the way the poems and stories (essays too?), as they came in, surprised or unsettled you?

I like the idea of desire, acceptance, and the desire for acceptance, too. I’m hopeful it is resonant for the readers of the anthology. The anthology came together joyfully, I think: I’m still astounded at how privileged I was to be trusted with such stunning poems and stories and essays. I was surprised and honoured to witness so much strength, so much resilience, and so much love. Many of the poems and stories in the book revolve around experiences of loss, abuse, shame, fear, and just, in general, some really tough stuff—but the over-arching theme of the book is moving through those feelings towards forgiveness and self-love. That theme of self-love and acceptance is not one I had to curate into existence; it emerged organically through the voices of the writers who were brave and generous enough to send me their work. It was also unsettling the way that writers were able to identify defining moments—occasions, if you like!—and make them come alive for the reader. In one of the memoir pieces, a writer describes what it was like to be idly watching a movie home alone and feeling a lump in her breast. In another, a woman notices a hole in her sock on the day she’s gone to the hospital for nipple reconstruction surgery. In another, a woman notices the way the sun slants down on her breastfeeding sister and that small moment helps to shift her perspective on her own body. In yet another piece, a woman recalls how she almost had to do the “pencil test” at a slumber party in junior high and reflects on how she’d allowed that moment to define into adulthood her relationship to her breasts.

Because I was lucky enough to receive work from writers of such diverse life experiences—different ages, orientations, colours and backgrounds, including both sides of the gender binary—perhaps what surprised me the most was how much all the stories had in common and yet how clearly each writer recognized and accepted the uniqueness of her or his/their own body.

 

Going from boobs back to birds, I think you said that you are at work on a series of poems which use birds as a central metaphor. Can you say something about that project and how you came to it?

Yes, I’m working on a full-length collection of poetry that centers around birds. It combines mythological and biological explorations of birds alongside a personal narrative about a couple trying to have a baby. The poems seek consolation through the shared desires of humans and animals, especially reproductive desire.

I came to the project accidentally. I was working on another project that focuses on fairy tales and how we use stories to cope with the difficulties of finding and keeping love, and during the writing and research for that project I kept on encountering birds, which are common and significant figures in fairy tales and in human storytelling culture more generally. Just think of the raven of Haida myth and the dove from Judeo-Christian biblical stories. Or Cinderella’s helpers and Hans Christian Andersen’s The Ugly Duckling and the stories attributed to Mother Goose! Or the pervasive folk belief that storks deliver babies to new parents. Birds have been particularly linked to human ideas about marital happiness, fertility, and family life, not to mention spiritual life. It gradually became apparent to me that my bird poems were a part of a new project that needed my attention, and the interest in fairy tale and mythological birds expanded into a curiosity about the history and biology of birds, too. My writing process now involves a lot of time outside with binoculars and good hiking shoes.

 

Barb Carter, TNQ’s Lead Poetry Editor, expressed her delight at how deftly you resist overstating the poem’s ending. Can you say something about your use of restraint, understatement, suggestion here or elsewhere in your poetic oeuvre or in your teaching?

Oh, wow, you must know how especially reassuring it is to receive feedback like that about my ending. Thank you. Restraint is something I’m constantly having to think about in my poetry, as someone whose work approaches the subjects most prone to sentimentality. I don’t know quite what to say about my “use of restraint” except that it probably arises out of an unrelenting awareness that, at heart, I’m a big romantic sap.


Top photo by flickr user Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

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